How to make scaffolding with your own hands - diagram and assembly of the structure

Tour tower, description of the device.

The mobile tower is a spatial tower-type structure made of flat frames with three steps.

Parallel frames are installed in the dumbbell pipes and form a section. To ensure the rigidity of the structure itself, the sections are connected to each other with ties, which are attached to dumbbell locks. The lower sections are installed on two bases, which are connected to each other by a volumetric diagonal.

The bases have four screw supports and four wheels. Wheels are used to move the tower. Screw supports compensate for unevenness of the supporting surface. The tower must be installed using screw supports so that the wheels do not touch the supporting surface by 2 mm.

The tower has a set of decking, which consists of two types - solid and with a hatch.

To ensure stability, the tower can be equipped with stabilizers, which are attached with clamps to the main structure of the tower.

Safety precautions during operation.

The tower must be installed strictly vertically using screw supports. The deck of the tower must have a flat surface.

The tower can be equipped with stabilizers to ensure its greatest stability. If there is a danger of overturning due to wind load or other factors, the tower must be strengthened to the building with guy wires as close to the top tier as possible. It is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP Sh-4-80 “Safety in Construction” and GOST 24258-88.

Instructions for assembling the tour tower.

How convenient is the tower-tour?

One of the main auxiliary devices on any construction site is a tower. It is mobile and easy to move as work is carried out in individual areas.
Such towers can be assembled and dismantled in literally 20 minutes by several workers. The towers have a fairly rigid structure, which ensures their reliability and stability.

The technical characteristics of the tower allow you to perform work at high heights and quickly move to another site. Often a tower-tour becomes a necessary device in the construction business.

What materials can be used to make a tower?

A tour made by handicraft can have the form of a collapsible or non-removable structure. Of course, the collapsible version is more convenient to use. When disassembled, it can be easily and compactly transported to various construction sites.

Disassembly and assembly will not take much time. And failed structural elements and fastenings are easy to replace.

Do you know that it is not difficult to make such a tower yourself from leftover metal elements at a construction site and not spend money on buying a tower - a factory-made one.

To make a tower you will need the following materials:

• For tower racks, profile pipes with a diameter of at least 30 mm are applicable.
• For stiffeners you will need a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm. or a corner with a shelf width of 30 mm.
• For jumpers, you can use a steel pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.
• You can fit wheels on one side; they will ensure easy movement of the tower.

The procedure for making a tower - tours

First, from a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm. you need to make 2-meter sections according to the number of planned sectional tower platforms. Each section will require four such segments. The ends of these pipes are flattened for ease of fastening to the main racks of the tower.

The next step will be preparing the tower racks. For this purpose, the profile is 30 mm. the pipe is cut into sections of 1.5 and 0.75 m. Small sections will be used to make the legs of the structure, and pipes one and a half meters long will be steps.

When manufacturing a non-separable structure, all elements are reliably welded by electric welding with careful checking of the quality of the seams. The distance between the pipes of the steps should not exceed 30 cm. As a result, wheels are mounted to the main racks.

The manufacture of a collapsible tower is a more complex process and will require special fastening units (clamps or bolts). In addition, in order to attach structural elements with bolts, many holes must be drilled in the pipes.

Tour tower, description of the device.

The mobile tower is a spatial tower-type structure made of flat frames with three steps.

Parallel frames are installed in the dumbbell pipes and form a section. To ensure the rigidity of the structure itself, the sections are connected to each other with ties, which are attached to dumbbell locks. The lower sections are installed on two bases, which are connected to each other by a volumetric diagonal.

The bases have four screw supports and four wheels. Wheels are used to move the tower. Screw supports compensate for unevenness of the supporting surface. The tower must be installed using screw supports so that the wheels do not touch the supporting surface by 2 mm.

The tower has a set of decking, which consists of two types - solid and with a hatch.

To ensure stability, the tower can be equipped with stabilizers, which are attached with clamps to the main structure of the tower.

Safety precautions during operation.

The tower must be installed strictly vertically using screw supports. The deck of the tower must have a flat surface.

The tower can be equipped with stabilizers to ensure its greatest stability. If there is a danger of overturning due to wind load or other factors, the tower must be strengthened to the building with guy wires as close to the top tier as possible. It is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP Sh-4-80 “Safety in Construction” and GOST 24258-88.

Instructions for assembling the tour tower.

Hunting from a tower

Hunting for livestock requires the hunter to have good knowledge of the area and the behavioral characteristics of the local wild boar population. Typically, hunting is carried out on artificial feeding grounds, or on known permanent areas of wild boar fattening in agricultural fields or natural feeding grounds. Such lands can be oak and cedar forests with a large number of acorns and cones, water meadows and wetlands near rivers and lakes, where there is a sufficient amount of succulent grasses and roots. The wild boar begins to feed in the evening; it may arrive at artificial, man-made feeding grounds a little earlier. In natural areas, the herd usually does not change its daily schedule.

Walking hunting is unsafe and requires developed hunting skills for this animal. Therefore, the most rational way is to hunt wild boar from a tower. These structures are installed in places where animals are most likely to appear and, according to their type, are divided into stationary and mobile. Towers can be located either along the edge of the feeding area, at the edge of a forest or the edge of a swamp, or in an open place. When installed in an open area, a stationary tower should be installed long before hunting begins on these sites. It is necessary for the wild boars to get used to the type of structure. However, this requirement is relevant when equipping a shelter of various designs and options.

When constructing a tower for boar hunting, many factors must be taken into account. Possible directions of approach of the animal, the direction of the wind at different times of the day, the direction of the sun's rays that can blind the hunter, the illumination of the area and the hiding place. The boar does not see very well, a herd with young animals makes quite a lot of noise when moving, so the animal primarily relies on its sense of smell. Air flows must be taken into account first.

. Here are some tips:

• at the edge of the forest there are always air turbulences and they must be taken into account;
• if the rising sun is behind the hunter, then its rays will first heat the open space in front of the tower and cold air will be drawn from the forest. When the sun sets, the direction changes to the opposite, i.e. from an open place to the edge of the forest;
• lines of roads, clearings, stream beds are natural conductors of air; the breeze always “pulls” along them.

It is necessary to clearly calculate the distance of the shot; this is precisely the factor that sometimes forces you to place a tower in an open place. Taking into account all the factors, you can find the most optimal place to install the structure. If there is such a possibility, then they will equip two towers for hunting under different conditions.

Types of scaffolding

Although metal or wood is predominantly used for the manufacture of scaffolding, they may differ in the method of fastening, and accordingly have different functional elements in their design. So, let's look at the main types of forests.

Wedge

The component elements are connected by a special wedge fixation. Scaffolds of this design are highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite heavy loads. At the same time, they are easy to use and can be quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding is especially important during construction and lifting of heavy materials and components.

Frame

The main element of this design is a rigidly mounted frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected to horizontal posts and diagonal braces thanks to node connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolding is its low cost. Their construction does not require large investments.

Pin

In these scaffoldings, the connection point, as is obvious from their name, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular among builders, as they are very easy to assemble and disassemble directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or even two to assemble the scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolding will not take much time.

Clamp

If the object where repair work is being carried out has a complex configuration, then clamp scaffolding is an excellent solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, the height and size of the working area, the distance between tiers and the pitch of the racks play an important role. All this is selected individually for each facility.

From boards

We invite you to familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:

• Lay out 4 racks or boards parallel to each other on a flat area. Their size must immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
• The racks are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
• Place the 2 frames made horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
• Lay the flooring from the boards on the horizontal ties and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
• Attach the railings to the posts and secure the stairs.

If it is necessary to lengthen the scaffolding structure, connect several similar sections of boards together. The boards are placed on the support posts.

When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill holes to prevent the boards from splitting.

Construction and types of scaffolding

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• floorings and lintels for it;
• fencing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal struts.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made from metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Design

Construction of scaffolding
All scaffolding consists of the following elements:

• racks;
• diagonal and horizontal struts (they give spatial strength to the structure);
• flooring lintels;
• a flooring made of boards on which a person will stand;
• stops (to create stability of the scaffolding and prevent it from falling away from the wall);
• a fencing element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
• ladder (stepladder) for climbing to the desired level of scaffolding.

What to choose?

To understand what is better, do-it-yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If it is necessary to erect a large structure, a large team of workers will work, and significant loads on the flooring are expected, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also allows you to save money, just like structures made by yourself.

DIY scaffolding from pallets

Made of wood and boards

Wooden Recommended reading: Installing a ramp for the disabled at the entrance according to the law
You can find quite a lot of advice on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding itself. To avoid getting confused in all this “diversity,” try to focus on the following values:

• 
  Installation of scaffolding, the distance between the posts is 2-2.5 meters;

• flooring width for work – 1 meter;
• the height of the entire structure is no more than 6 meters.

Let's get started:

1. Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
   boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or timber 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
2. boards for spacers and fencing 30 mm thick;
3. boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
4. nails (screws in this case are less reliable).
5. Attach the four posts using diagonal spacers (on all four sides) at the recommended distances.
6. Attach the lintel boards to the desired height.
7. Secure the deck boards to the lintels.
8. Nail a board to fence off the work area.
9. Install stops.
10. Position and secure the ladder.

MANUFACTURING A DASHBOARD

To be able to work on a tower-tour, it is necessary to make a platform. It is made from pipes 20 by 40 mm. They need to be welded together and then painted. Since the tower is 1 m wide, one platform will be very heavy and will be difficult to lift up. Therefore, in this case, it is better to make 2 smaller platforms. The platforms rest on ladders.

Boards along the width of the platform must be attached to the profile pipes; their thickness of 25 mm will be sufficient. We secured the boards with bolts and nuts, after drilling holes in both the boards and the deck frame.

All elements of the tower-tour are ready. We paint them with metal paint so they don't rust.

Photo instructions

We invite you to view a number of photographs on the topic of how to make wooden scaffolding yourself:

Blanks

Frame assembly

Holes for fastenings

Bolted connection

Frame installation

Fixing diagonals

Building up

Flooring

Collection of loess

Construction scaffolding is assembled in the following order:

1. First, you need to cut the blanks: diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened to about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 racks located vertically are connected using spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.

3. The horizontal parts are connected using ties, at a distance of approximately 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are secured.

5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to paint the scaffolding so that it lasts longer. If you plan to frequently disassemble and reassemble the structure, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of 2.5x2.5 cm profile is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people wonder whether it is worth making scaffolding themselves. On the one hand, this design is bulky; you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but this will take a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not with self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work; they can be used for other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height will be at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.

From a profile pipe

Metal scaffolding
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height of the scaffolding you need.

1. Prepare the necessary materials:
   for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
2. for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
3. for connecting inserts (adapters) – profile pipe 25x25 mm;
4. Make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
5. Cut the pipe for spacers according to the following calculation:
   for diagonal elements – 2 meters;
6. for horizontal elements connecting the racks from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
7. Cut diagonal two-meter spacers at both ends (by 6-8 cm) and flatten them (this will make it easier to attach them).
8. Connect two posts together by welding them together with horizontal spacers in increments (vertical) of 30 cm.
9. Assemble the adapters: put a small section of 30x30 cm profile pipe (7-8 cm long) onto a profile pipe with a cross-section of 25X25 mm and a length of 25-30 cm and weld in the center.
10. Drill holes for bolts on the posts and diagonal braces.
11. Assemble the entire structure, sand and paint.
12. Place one section on top of another (connecting them using adapters), lay the flooring from the boards in the right place.

JACKS

After assembly, the tower must be leveled horizontally. A jack system is used for this. The main component of jacks is a threaded pin with a diameter of at least 20 mm. To install the stud into the base pipes, you need to make a hole for it. If you have a drill of this diameter, you can drill 4 holes along the edges. If you don’t have a drill, you can burn holes using electric welding. This is exactly what was done in this case.

We will make the jacks from studs with a diameter of 20 mm. The hairpins are sold 1 m long; we cut them into 4 equal parts with a grinder.

The resulting length of the pin, equal to 25 cm, is not enough to level the tower. The jack should be no shorter than 35 cm. But the stud is quite expensive. Therefore, in order to save money, we will lengthen the 25-centimeter pieces by welding 15 cm of reinforcement to them, with a diameter of 15 mm. A thread length of 25 cm is quite enough for us, and the top of the jack can be smooth. To make it easier to tighten the jacks, we weld short pieces of metal to the reinforcement, perpendicular to the stud.

To fix the jacks on the base of the tower, two nuts must be welded to the pipes near each hole. We weld nuts on the bottom of the pipe: one on the outside and the other on the inside.

First, apply the nuts to the hole, screw the stud into them, align it vertically and carefully weld it together without damaging the thread. Then unscrew the stud and weld the nuts more thoroughly. As a result, the jack should screw freely into both nuts. The nuts must be welded extremely securely; the entire load will be supported on them.

Then we weld short pieces of pipes into which the stairs will be inserted to the base.

Now, in order to increase the support area of ​​the jacks, we will weld larger washers to the bottom of the stud.

The base can be painted.

Once the paint has dried, you can attach the wheels to the platforms using bolts and nuts.

"Pros and cons"

What homemade scaffolding should be like
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small construction scaffolding, but a rather bulky structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.

Wooden scaffolding, of course, can be disassembled later, but the work is labor-intensive, and the boards, if you don’t need them in the near future, also need to be stored somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled using nails, not screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood often gets dirty with mortar or paint.

Self-made metal scaffolding can not only be disassembled, but also rented out in the future.

Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work maximum at the second floor level (from the ground). At higher altitudes, the operation of self-made scaffolding becomes dangerous.

Thirdly, scaffolding is required quite rarely (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.

Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for installing siding). Accordingly, their weight increases, and moving homemade wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.

Construction methods

By making temporary structures yourself, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of ​​use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:

• structures for repair and finishing work with a small load on the flooring;
• Products for masonry work with high load capacity.

Depending on the materials, handmade woods are:

• metal;
• wooden.

We will consider the manufacturing process of each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out according to all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study the regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.

Of course, you can buy homemade scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, their reliability and compliance with the requirements of current regulatory documents.

How to do without scaffolding

It is worth thinking about forests at the stage of designing a house.

If you don’t plan to carry out the façade work yourself (but are planning to hire a construction team), then you don’t have to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their own scaffolding and scaffolding.

However, after construction is completed (and after some time has passed), scaffolding may be needed for minor facade repair work. Can this be avoided?

Certainly. And first, make sure that the facade of your house does not require repairs for many years. To do this, it is enough to use facing bricks when constructing walls. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and in a fairly wide range of colors.

But other facing materials (such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

The attached drawings for DIY wooden scaffolding will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in this order:

We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, all that remains is to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation must be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. To give you an idea of ​​the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm. So, you will need 6 meters of edged boards with a cross-section of 20x4 cm to assemble the working flooring, as well as 36 m of timber with a cross-section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. We can then calculate the total cost of homemade scaffolding based on the price of one cubic meter of wood.

A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

Advantages and disadvantages of corrugated pipe scaffolding

Scaffolding made from corrugated pipe is highly durable, but at the same time lightweight, since the pipe is hollow inside. Compared to round pipes, profile walls have a larger support area. This prevents deformation of profile pipes under heavy loads.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes has the advantage of being easy to assemble at a relatively low cost. This allows you to save on the production of construction bridges. The corrugated pipe is compactly stacked during storage and transportation.

And if the main disadvantage of products made from profile pipes is extremely poor bendability, then in our case this is rather an advantage.

Disadvantages of homemade scaffolding:

From the proposed photos you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:

• Factory scaffolding can be assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. The homemade scaffolding can take a whole day to assemble.
• Difficulties in constructing scaffolding with your own hands are not in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all components are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, detailed assembly instructions are included.
• The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much greater than that of prefabricated steel structures.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):

It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it needs to be done at high altitudes. The design will help you safely climb to the top, do everything you need, and place materials nearby that will help you in your work. It is inconvenient to rent construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, since it will constantly drain funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, you can make loess yourself. They will be made in a way that is convenient for the owner and will provide the ability to rise to the desired height.

How many years are metal walkways designed for?

The period of use depends on the conditions of storage, operation, transportation, unloading, loading. The quality of the paint and its layer on critical areas and locks also influences. The minimum shelf life for metal scaffolding in some passport data is 5 years.

But if we take into account that the painted profile material, according to the manufacturers, can be stored for more than 30 years, then products made from it, accordingly, can be stored for the same amount. If, before storage, the profile material is treated with anti-corrosion agents and tinted, and damaged parts are repaired, then this period is doubled or tripled.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can make yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing; boards can be added to the structure. If you make everything out of wood, it will be much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand significant loads; there is a possibility of breakage with a large weight installed on them.

In terms of time, a metal frame will take longer to complete, but gradually the costs of its production will be covered by reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled and rebuilt. In addition to wooden ones, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamps. As a priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. Assembling such products is problematic, but there is an option to bend them as required.

2. Wedge. A significant amount of mass can be placed on them.

3. Pin. They are quite simple to assemble and disassemble. They will be used for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness and ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of base surface. They are most often used in construction because they are easy to make with your own hands.

Important:
construction scaffolds made with your own hands from a profile pipe should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended for two people to stand on them.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

1. Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
2. Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
3. Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
4. Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
5. Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
6. Railings (protect workers from falling).
7. Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal . A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

We recommend reading: Requirements for evacuation by stairs according to fire regulations

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Your questions about blob towers

Where to buy a Tour tower?

Such a tower is probably sold in your city, in any construction company. If you have any difficulties with this, write to us.

Do you supply towers for Blob? Do you install it yourself?

For an additional fee, we can manufacture and install a Blob tower for you.

In the mid-20th century, construction used rickety scaffolding and workers were afraid and often reluctant to work at high heights, as no multi-story building was built without accidents, often fatal. Today, the work of a high-rise builder has become safer, largely thanks to modern types of scaffolding, which, from a structural point of view, is a frame system made of standard metal and wooden elements.

In order to use forests for your own purposes, it is not necessary to acquire ownership of them. It is possible to contact specialized organizations in your region that rent out scaffolding. They will provide you with collapsible scaffolding as it is reusable.

1. Wooden scaffolding

• Pin scaffolding
• Tower tour
• Wedge scaffolding
• Clamp scaffolding

What is scaffolding?

Scaffolding is an auxiliary structure that is temporary in nature and is erected to carry out construction and installation work. Scaffolding is necessary to accommodate workers, builders, as well as building materials at a construction site. They are used both outside and inside the building under construction. Scaffolding is like a web that envelops a new building or a building undergoing restoration work. Thanks to modern scaffolding, workers and builders work in safer conditions, with minimal risk to health and life.

Types of scaffolding

Depending on what the structural elements of scaffolding are made of, they can be wooden or metal, and based on the method of fastening functional elements together, scaffolding can be:

Wedge scaffolding, in which the component elements are connected by means of wedge fixation. Scaffolding of this type is quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads, but at the same time, they can be disassembled very quickly. Wedge-type scaffolding is recommended for such construction work, during which it is planned to use heavy components and materials.

Frame scaffolding, here the main component is a rigid frame. Such scaffolding is intended for plastering or painting construction work. In frame scaffolding, the frame is connected to horizontal posts and to diagonal braces using knot connections. Making this type of scaffolding will cost you quite little.

Pin scaffolding. In these scaffoldings, the connection point is a pin. They can be installed or dismantled very quickly, which is why they are very popular among builders.

Clamp scaffolding, on the contrary, is designed to perform work on sites with a very complex configuration. Scaffolding of this type of fastening is professional equipment, for the production of which all significant parameters: the dimensions and height of the working area and the distance between tiers, as well as the pitch of the racks, must be selected in accordance with the individual characteristics of the given object.

Is it possible to make scaffolding yourself? To do this, let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type of scaffolding.

Wooden scaffolding

Wood, wood, as you know, is one of the oldest building materials, and it is quite possible to construct scaffolding of good quality from it. However, they are more suitable for finishing work, no higher than a three-story private house.

Wooden scaffolding is made from scraps of 50-centimeter boards measuring 1.50x5 cm, pieces of thinner boards (for example, 2.5x10 cm), and boards of the required length for horizontal flooring. For supports you will need two long boards, like timber, on which you can attach all the components of the scaffolding. From scraps of 50-centimeter boards you need to put together triangular supports for this structure, then sheathe them with a thinner board.

What size should the triangular supports be? They must provide sufficient space for the builder standing on them and prevent the possibility of tearing away from the wall/support. Therefore, the length of the scaffold should be from 40 to 50 cm, so that the feet in no case sag beyond the scaffold. The supports will be attached to the supports, necessarily, at an acute angle. The upper part (called the sleg) must be cut at such an angle that it can be inserted inside the triangular support. But the lower part should be pointed for strong anchorage in the ground.

When the scaffolding is raised to the required level, using nails or self-tapping screws, you will need to attach the vertical side of the triangular supports to the wall, and (if you use nails), without driving them in to the very top, since after completing the installation work they will have to be removed and dismantle the scaffolding. When placing the ladder, one after another we lift, install, and then nail the corresponding flooring boards to the supports; in this case, the nails must be driven in all the way, your safety may depend on this.

Before starting construction and finishing work, you need to make sure that the scaffolding is stable. They can be erected to a height not exceeding seven meters; if you build a structure higher than the specified distance, then you can forget about your safety. Scaffolding of this design can also be built from bamboo. This is customary to do in Asian countries, since there this plant is more common than wood. At the same time, the strength of bamboo products is an order of magnitude higher than that of wood products.

Metal scaffolding

In modern construction, especially multi-storey buildings, scaffolding made of steel and aluminum pipes is used. They are manufactured industrially. Frame scaffolding includes towers, flag and pin scaffolding, and modular scaffolding includes suspended, wedge, modular system and clamp scaffolding.

Before you begin installing metal scaffolding, you need to prepare the site on which the scaffolding will be built; it must be well compacted for greater stability of the structure. It is also necessary to organize the drainage of rainwater, otherwise the water may wash away the supporting pillars, and the structure may collapse or tip over.

Frame (flag) scaffolding

Frame (flag) scaffolding has a standard load of 200 kg/m2.

Their design consists of steel frames, a stand for (horizontal and vertical) fastenings, side frames and so-called “shoes” for support on the ground.

As mentioned above, this type of scaffolding is quite popular among builders due to its low price and ease of installation. Such scaffolding is intended for buildings with straight facades, where masonry and finishing work is carried out. The maximum assembly height of such scaffolding is 50m.

Before you begin installing frame scaffolding, you need to carefully consider the plan for their construction and the arrangement of tiers with stairs, find out the types and required number of structural elements of scaffolding.

The assembly of frame scaffolding occurs as follows:

On the prepared site, 3 m long sections are measured and support boards are laid out, and steel shoes are installed on top of them. Frames are installed in them, which form the first tier of scaffolding. They are connected with braces and ties, then the second tier is installed. To lay the flooring, crossbars are installed. From the first to the last tier, diagonal ties must be installed in a checkerboard pattern. And the stair structures need to be positioned at an angle so that workers can climb both vertical stairs built into the frames themselves and inclined stairs, which is much more convenient.

Pin scaffolding

Pin scaffolding has a standard load of 200 kg/m2.

Their installation is also quite simple, like frame scaffolding. In them, horizontal elements are attached by inserting pins into hollow tube-eyes. Each level is assembled in stages. The braces are installed diagonally here, which gives them greater rigidity.

The maximum height of pin scaffolding can be 40 meters. They are also used in masonry work and for finishing.

Tower tour

The tower tower has a standard load of 200 kg/m2.

These structures are designed for periodic repair work of varying complexity. The tour tower is assembled from ready-made frames, which are equipped with a ladder. Their base is on wheels. The tour tower has two or three horizontal platforms. The top one has a hinged hatch for ascent and descent. The height of tower towers ranges from 4 to 21 meters, which depends on the number of tiers. Each tier is about 2 meters high. They can be classified as mobile scaffolding. Thanks to the wheels, they can be moved to another place without disassembly, provided that the surface of movement must be level.

Wedge scaffolding

Wedge scaffolding has a standard load of 200-300 kg/m2.

These are more complex devices. The constituent elements of these scaffolds can be fixed with steel wedges, which are driven in with a hammer. These are quite reliable scaffolding compared to frame and pin scaffolding. The maximum height of construction wedge scaffolding is about 40 m.

Clamp scaffolding

Clamp scaffolding is perhaps one of the first types of scaffolding. All their structural elements are connected using rotary and blind clamps. However, they are quite difficult to assemble.

Based on the above, it becomes clear that the only type of scaffolding that you can prepare with your own hands is wooden scaffolding. Regardless of which scaffolding you choose, do not forget to take care of your safety; façade mesh will come in handy. Made from high-strength polyethylene, it will not only make scaffolding safer, but also improve its appearance.

Vadim Burovoy

When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at height, and therefore it is impossible to do without reliable scaffolding. The best solution is to make scaffolding yourself, then you won’t have to pay rent or waste time transporting the structure. They come in wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.

Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:

• support posts;
• stairs;
• floorings and lintels for it;
• fencing railings;
• stops;
• horizontal and diagonal struts.

Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made from metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.

Wedge forests

Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.

Table. Types of forests

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

• maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
• distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

• For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
• Spacers, ties and railings can be made from 30-gauge edged boards.
• For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

• on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
• the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
• the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
• a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
• the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
• Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes is similar in design to wooden ones. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

1. Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
2. Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
3. Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
4. Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
5. 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

• Scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps (high precision when working with metal is a very important factor);
• horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
• adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
• having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
• the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
• Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
• the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
• holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
• plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
• the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
• Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in its racks it is necessary to make holes for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).

Video on the topic:

Tower design features

As already mentioned, a hunting tower can be stationary or portable. Stationary towers are equipped by hunting enterprises and are strong wooden structures in which you can not only wait for a long time for the arrival of the animal, but also spend the night if necessary to wait out bad weather.

These are often storage sheds with walls and a roof. The roof for a stationary tower is a mandatory element, and the walls can be minimized depending on the climate. Briefly, such structures can be characterized by several parameters recommended in the specialized literature for hunting farms. The optimal height of the platform is 4 - 4.5 meters, the area of ​​the platform is at least 1.5 x 1.5 meters, corner supports (pillars) are traditionally arranged in the amount of 4 pieces. The angle of inclination of the stairs is recommended 65˚-75˚ from the horizontal, the distance between the rungs is 25-30 cm.

The strongest geometric figure is a triangle, the most stable vertical structure is a pyramid. It is logical to build a tower on three support pillars, but in this case many other problems would arise, such as the arrangement and fastening of the platform, the construction of walls or simply supports for the shooter’s back. The compromise lies in the correct separation of the supports at a slight angle to the vertical and their installation along the supporting area, like a truncated triangle. The rungs on the stairs must be secured to the longitudinal poles for better support. The platform is made from both boards and hewn logs. Gaps must be left between the laid elements for quick drying. A lining can be laid on the storage shed floor. After all, the wait at a boar hunt can last several hours.

Rules for constructing a frame

First, prepare the soil on which the scaffolding will stand. Then they begin to install the scaffolding from the profile pipe.

Preparing for installation

It is necessary to compact the soil well where the scaffolding support posts will be installed, and provide drainage in case of rainy weather. It is better to prevent water from flowing under all supporting elements so that the soil under them does not erode.

Installation

The procedure for installing walkways from a profile pipe is as follows:

1. Assemble vertical staircase posts. To do this, horizontal crossbars are mounted to the supports to form a ladder.
2. Next, the intermediate racks are assembled. They differ from staircases only in the absence of steps. Only the horizontal crossbars are the same.
3. Vertical posts are secured with side struts.
4. After mounting and installing the stairs, horizontal supports are installed and the flooring is laid on them.
5. Then, in the same sequence, the parts of the second floor, third, etc. are assembled.

When assembling scaffolding with your own hands, follow the drawing.

How to choose a professional pipe, how many pipes will be needed

For vertical racks, it is advisable to use profile pipes with a side of at least 40 mm. These can be pipes 40 × 40, 40 × 60 or 40 × 80 mm. For horizontal crossbars, you can use corrugated pipe 40 × 40, 40 × 30, 40 × 20 or, in extreme cases, 30 × 30 mm.

Some suggest using a profile pipe with a side of 20 mm. I do not recommend doing this, since the thin profile pipe has a small fastening area, and the side horizontal supports, together with the flooring on which the workers and building materials are located, are fixed with only four connections.

The rungs of the staircase posts are made from a profile of the same size. If they are thin, then bringing the building material onto the flooring will be extremely inconvenient.

If the size 40 × 20 is chosen for the steps, then it is better to mount them flat, with the wide side parallel to the ground. But the profile pipe for the side horizontal supports, on the contrary, has the narrow side facing the ground so that it does not bend. By the way, this is the advantage of a profile pipe compared to a round one - it is more resistant to bending.

We recommend reading: Do-it-yourself staircase to the attic: instructions on how to assemble and finish it yourself (photos and videos)

For side braces or side diagonal braces, a 20 × 20 mm profile pipe is sufficient. The amount of material depends on the height for which the walkways will be designed, the number of intermediate struts and the span length used - 2 or 2.5 m. The standard width is 950 mm for a 1 m deck.

For the option described below, you will need 10 m of profile pipe 80 × 40 mm, 4 pieces of 2.5 m each. For horizontal crossbars you will need 8.65 m, 4 pieces of 2.16 m of profile pipe 40 × 20. Diagonal crossbar length 2, 85 m is the same standard size as the horizontal ones, but it can be thinner.

The steps are made from a 40 × 20 mm profile pipe; you will need 12 of them. 1 m long. In order for the distance between the supports to be 950 mm, they must be recessed into the square holes of the racks. For metal flooring you need a sheet of 2 × 0.95 m with a thickness of at least 4 mm.

How to assemble metal scaffolding with your own hands

To replicate a convenient and compact design with your own hands, I suggest an option with a height of 2.5 m racks made from a profile pipe. They are suitable even for interior construction work where the ceiling height is more than 2.5 m. When used externally, these walkways are suitable for almost any one-story house. They are easy to install or dismantle with your own hands, or move to another place. They are shown in the photo above.

Required tools and materials

To mount scaffolding from a profile pipe, it is better to use an autogen or semi-automatic machine, because it is almost impossible to make a high-quality connection with a simple inverter. Horizontal crossbars, as I wrote above, are subject to heavy loads. Therefore, you need to burn holes where the crossbars or steps will be inserted.

The connection is then scalded until a reliable fastening is obtained. To do this, it is better to use gas welding or semi-automatic welding. But it’s even better to make square holes using a drill and a punch. This option is preferable.

You will need a grinder, a tape measure, and a metal marker. Made of material - 10 m of profile pipe 80 × 40 mm and 23.5 m - 40 × 20 mm, metal sheet 4 mm thick and 2 × 0.95 m in size. Can be made from 2 pieces 1 × 1 m by cutting or bending the edges with your own hands.

Drawings and diagrams

The scaffolding, the diagram of which is shown in the drawing, is made of profile pipes 80 × 40 mm and 40 × 20 mm.

A crossbar with a metal profile deck is shown in the figure below. There are plates welded on the edges - they will prevent the sheet from sliding off the supports.

Step 1. Preparing the spacers

Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of horizontal ones is 96 cm, diagonal - 2 m. After this, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the spacers to the supporting posts.

Preparing the spacersPreparing the spacers

Step 2. Making adapters

To build up scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from profile pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and 8 cm long blanks are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.

Adapters

Step 3. Frame assembly

Racks

Two vertical posts are connected to each other by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The result is a frame in the form of a ladder. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the section racks will not sink into the ground, although on soft soils dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.

Step 4. Section installation

Assembly of the structure

Two frames are installed vertically, one opposite the other, and diagonal struts are tried on. Mark the fastening points with a marker, then drill holes for the bolts in the posts and spacers. Connect all the parts together and check with a level that the upper crossbars are horizontal. If the structure is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.

Step 5. Making the flooring

Assembly diagram

Flooring boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse flooring, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, take boards at least 2 m long, knock them down along the width of the sections, and reinforce them from below with transverse bars to prevent deflection.

To ensure that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be secured to its ends according to the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. Markings are made in the same way at the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile 17-20 mm wide, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the flooring is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.

Painting scaffolding

It is needed not so much for beauty as to prevent metal corrosion. Therefore, I advise using acrylic or alkyd paint. Before painting, it is advisable to treat the product with an anti-corrosion solution, wash off the dirt with a solvent, and wipe the scaffolding with a rag. It is advisable to paint all welded parts in 2 layers.

If you paint it with light paint, then any elements of corrosion will be clearly visible. Therefore, they can be noticed in a timely manner and re-processed: painted or repaired with a welding tool.

MANUFACTURING THE BASE

For the base (or base), we take 2 two-meter pipes, 2 m long, 60 by 60 mm in size, metal thickness 3 mm.

It is necessary to weld two pieces measuring 35 by 35 mm and 20 cm long at the edges to them so that stairs can be installed. In order for the structure to be reliable, holes must be cut in the bases for them. Let's step back 10 cm from the edge, apply a piece of pipe to the surface of the base, outline it with a pencil and use a grinder to cut out a metal square with sides equal to 35 mm.

Let's make 4 such holes, two on each base.

Each support must have 2 wheels installed so that the assembled tower can be moved from one place to another. Special wheels for these purposes are sold in construction stores; they must have a diameter of at least 10 cm and withstand a load equal to the weight of the tower.

The wheel platform is larger than the size of the side of the base, so a metal plate of a size equal to the size of the wheel base needs to be welded to the pipe. We will cut them out of metal, at least 4 mm thick, and drill holes for attaching the wheels.

Then we weld these plates to the base on both sides, retreating 10-15 cm from the edge.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance between the racks of 2 to 2.5 meters, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.

DIY scaffolding

To work you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick;
• boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
• nails;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• Circular Saw.

The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier and may become deformed after drying. Since scaffolding is required only for the duration of construction or finishing of the house, there is no need to treat it with antiseptic compounds or sand it.

Step 1. Making the frame

Wooden scaffolding

4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: the smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meter ones along the lower edge. You should end up with two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.

Step 2. Assembling the frame

The frames are lifted, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m. Check the horizontal position of the sidewalls with a building level, and if everything is correct, nail the frame tightly. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.

How to build a hunting tower yourself?

Most often, a hunting tower is built by one hunter or a group on public land and looks more modest. It can be an analogue of a stationary tower, smaller in size, or a simplified version in the form of a ladder with a small platform, which rests on a fixed support and leans against a tree. This option is closer to mobile; the tower can be moved depending on conditions.

How to build a tower with your own hands? The main characteristics of the tower are preserved. But there are some nuances. Individual hunters believe that a platform height of 3-3.5 meters is quite enough, and the platform can be a wide, comfortable bench for sitting with a support for the feet and a horizontal crossbar for supporting a weapon. The most acceptable option is to install a tower in a sparse forest near a feeding clearing or swamp, on the edge of the forest next to the fields. In this case, an adult tree with a wide crown is selected, which can serve as both a roof from precipitation and camouflage at the same time. A platform is attached to it; large branches of the same tree can be used. The other two supports are made from trunks with a diameter of at least 8 cm in the upper part; they serve as a reliable support for the platform in its front part. This should not be neglected - the tower should provide comfortable waiting, and a wide platform can only be securely held in this way.

The tower, especially if it is built near a tree, must have all the elements well adjusted to each other

. When swaying by the wind, or simply moving a person on it, these elements should not creak. That is why preference is given to fastening with bolts rather than with nails or twists. The staircase is installed on the side, but not on the front. This provides better visibility and allows you to arrange a weapon support. If the platform is arranged for a sitting person, then the support under the legs should be positioned in such a way that the hunter’s legs do not hang down, but rest tightly in a bent state, preventing numbness. The crossbar at chest level for supporting the weapon is made of two elements, thus freeing up the hands.

Building a tower in an open area is much more labor-intensive. Here, the stability of the structure comes first. For support-posts, coniferous trees with a diameter of at least 16 cm in the butt are selected. The design features have already been discussed; the posts are set up in the form of a pyramid with a support in a truncated triangle. The area itself is selected depending on the height of the platform, but the distance between the pillars should be no less than a third of the width of the platform in the corresponding direction. There are two ways to strengthen supports in the ground. In the first case, the bottom of the support is dug into the ground 50-70 cm, the bottom is equipped with a small crossbar, which is attached to a notch or cut and prevents the support from being pulled out of the hole. The second method is to strengthen a piece of metal channel on a wooden support with bolts, and then drive it into the ground. This method is simpler, but does not provide rigid fastening of the supports in the ground when they swing.

Non-standard ways of building hunting towers

A portable tower is the logical result of the desire to drag the tower to another location. A massive wooden staircase with a light sitting platform at its upper end is a ready-made solution to this problem. When making a mobile tower, you have to sacrifice some parameters. For example, the installation height of the platform is unlikely to be more than 3 meters, and the width of the platform will be sufficient simply for sitting without any amenities. The structure itself must provide for rigid fastening of the platform to vertical supports using braces and have support behind the back. Often such a support is a continuation of these slopes, serves as a support for the elbows, and the support for the back is arranged with a piece of tarpaulin stretched between them.

Folding mobile towers made of aluminum have recently appeared on the hunting goods market. Their design fully corresponds to the description above, but they are much lighter and more convenient. When assembled, they can be transported in the back of a car or trunk.

What to do if there are no large trees near the wild boars’ feeding area? In this case, in some regions, hunters build a storage shed on several young trees, connecting them with their tops. It is impossible to do without fastening the vertices. Otherwise, with any movement of the shooter, with any light wind, the structure will sway and creak. The top is pulled as high as possible. The trees do not necessarily have to intertwine their tops, but there should be tension in the “dome”. Then transverse crossbars are attached between the trunks at the selected height, and a platform is laid on them. Further technology is similar to those described above. The supports in this option are as follows: the trees must be at least 10 cm at the level of the platform fastening, the number of support trunks is no more than four and no less than three, all fastenings must be made in a “notch” or “cut down”. The rest will be dictated by the hunter’s imagination and his carpentry skills.

This is a truly universal building structure designed for high-rise work. The main difference between the tura tower and other scaffolding is its high mobility and fairly compact size. All this allows you not only to work at high altitudes, but also to move it from one workplace to another in a short time. Sometimes a tour tower is practically irreplaceable, but what to do if there is no opportunity to buy it at the moment? In this case, there is only one way out, to make it yourself.

What materials will be needed to make a tower tower?

A homemade tour can be made in two versions: collapsible and non-collapsible. The collapsible option is better both in terms of transportation and storage. After all, it is much easier to disassemble a tour and bring it indoors when it is not needed, and then reassemble it when needed, than to store it outside. To make a collapsible tower you will need the following materials:

Profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - from this pipe the racks for the tower will subsequently be made;

An ordinary pipe with a diameter of 15mm - this pipe will act as oblique ties for the tower, which will give it higher strength and reliability;

Profile pipe with a diameter of 25 mm - this pipe will need very little and all of it will be used to create jumpers;

Wheels for the tour tower - in fact, they will give the tour high mobility;

Where to start making a tower?

The first step is to cut the 15mm pipe into 2m sections, the number of these sections will depend on the number of tower sections being erected. One section will require 4 such segments. Then these segments need to be flattened at the ends, this is necessary so that it is more convenient to attach them to the tower. To make them wrinkle better, you can make small longitudinal cuts.

The next step is to make racks for the tower; to do this, cut a 30mm profile pipe into sections of 1.5m and 0.74m. Cuts 1.5m long (2 per rack) will be the legs of the rack, and 0.74m long (4 per rack) will be the steps. Then all this needs to be welded into a single structure so that the distance between the steps does not exceed 30cm. Also at this stage the wheels should be welded to the racks.

The next step is to make jumpers for the tower; for this we cut a profiled pipe with a diameter of 25mm into pieces of 20-25cm, as well as a profiled pipe with a diameter of 30mm into pieces of 4-6cm. Then we thread 25mm sections of 30mm to approximately the middle and fasten them by welding. The final touch before assembling the tower is to drill a hole for the anchor bolt, which will fasten the ties and posts together.

It is also worth noting that a homemade tour tower is a rather poor alternative to a factory one. It is heavier and less durable and reliable. Homemade towers do not allow you to work at significant heights and are rather a temporary, short-lived means that you can work on only at your own peril and risk. Therefore, if possible, it is still worth buying a factory-made tour, fortunately they are not as expensive as before.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. “Goat” scaffolds are usually called low portable tables that can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.