Do-it-yourself American key

For the installation of water, gas and steam pipelines, a quick-disconnect coupling (QCU), called an “American coupling,” is often used. Installation of meters, water heaters, filters, radiators is carried out using BRS.

In any places where it is necessary to connect metal-plastic or other pipes that are already fixed and there is no way to turn them, the “American” is the best way out of the situation. In addition, dismantling of the equipment is carried out by unscrewing just one nut.

Key for detachable connections “American”: types, how to make it yourself

Advantages and disadvantages

Having examined the features of American plumbing and answered the question of what it is, we can dwell on the advantages and disadvantages of these devices.

First, let's look at their advantages:

reliability and strength of the connection, absolute tightness of the connection;
simplicity and high speed of installation, which involves tightening one or two nuts;
a dismountable connection that can be easily removed and put back;
the ability to join pipes made of materials of different structures;
a wide range of products of different configurations with seals included;
long service life of a structure assembled using American steel.

Fittings in this category have no technical disadvantages. The high cost confuses craftsmen with low incomes, but it is justified by the high quality of the product. As for changing the color of products made of non-ferrous and ferrous metal, they are installed in technological channels, covered with panels and boxes.

Why is “American” called that?

For residents of the USA, this fitting has a completely different name, which has nothing to do with America. In our country, this name took root due to the fact that in the 50s and 60s of the 20th century, machines for the woodworking industry were imported to the USSR from the USA, in which such quick-release connections were present.

It was not at all difficult to understand the simplicity and convenience of such a design. And the “American” not only took root in Russia, but also became an indispensable fitting with exactly that name. How angle grinders, once first brought from Bulgaria, have forever become “grinders” for us, regardless of which country produces them.

Materials

American fittings are made from materials that have different strength, resistance to temperature changes and corrosion. Each pipeline has its own characteristics, for which its own version of connections and inserts is selected.

Steel (stainless)

Stainless steel products are characterized by high strength, ease of use and long service life. They do not change their appearance throughout the entire service.

The cost of steel weld fittings is in the average range, which makes them popular among amateurs and professionals.

Galvanized

They belong to the budget category of goods of this class. The availability of products attracts craftsmen when carrying out large-scale construction work. However, the service life of galvanized fittings is limited. Over the course of several years, their geometry is disrupted due to corrosion, which destroys the black iron. The zinc itself moves away from the body of the product after a maximum of a year, exposing unsightly rust.

Brass

A review of the types of couplings for polypropylene pipes allows us to conclude that brass American ones meet all the requirements regarding reliability and safety.

The alloy is durable, elastic, resistant to heat and chemically active liquids. The disadvantage is the high cost and change in color of brass during operation. The appearance of products is improved by chrome plating or powder coating.

Copper

American copper products are produced in limited quantities due to low demand and high cost. Fittings made of this metal are in demand only when they are attached to products made of a similar material. Copper is difficult to care for as it darkens and develops a greenish patina.

The metal is susceptible to electrolytic corrosion, which is impossible to combat.

Plastic

American women are not produced in their pure form from polypropylene. This plastic does not have sufficient strength for connecting pipes and plumbing fixtures. A polymer is used as a base into which metal threaded inserts are fused. As a rule, plastic American ones are used in systems where there is high temperature and pressure.

What is "American"

The “American” consists of two fittings, a nut and a seal. For installation, threads are cut at the ends of the pipes (if they are not there). One part of the detachable connection is screwed onto one pipe, the other - onto the other. Then the nut is tightened, which is common to the two parts of the fitting. At the same time, it pulls both pipes towards each other. The connection is tight and airtight. Distortion is eliminated.

“Americans” allow you to install pipes of different diameters, with external and internal threads, as well as with a welding connection option. They can be straight, angular, cross, plugs, and so on, but in any case, you will need a key to install them. The nut itself can be tightened with an open-end wrench. But the fittings are cylindrical in shape and often have external threads. Using an external hex key will not work.

Adjustable, squeezing, can deform the fitting. Press fittings must be screwed from the inside. To do this, they have two influxes on diametrically opposite sides. It is possible to install using pliers inserted inside, as well as other objects. But this is fraught with damage to technical influxes.

There is a special internal key for “American women”, sometimes called a plumbing key.

It is strictly not recommended to use gas keys to install the “American”. The grooved surfaces of the jaws will damage the fitting. Incorrect vector of applied force can damage the thread.

Assembly

The Americana union nut is tightened using a standard open-end wrench or a union version of this type of tool is used. Some people try to use a gas wrench, which is not recommended as it can damage the nickel plating. If there is a decorative coating on the nut, rubber or plastic gaskets should be used, or you can also use plywood.

Installation of "American" pipes on metal-plastic pipes involves the use of a special tool in the form of an internal wrench. It is necessary for tightening the press fitting during installation. Typically, such a key has the shape of a cylinder, complemented by two notches that are necessary for hooks, but a hexagon version is also available.

Instead of an internal key, improvised tools, such as pliers, are often used, which increases the likelihood of damaging the product in question. When this plan is intended to be a one-time operation, that is, it is necessary to install only one “American” type connection, then this approach is justified to a certain extent, but in the case of installing several pipes, you should still take care of purchasing a special tool.

If you have skills in working with metal, then you can easily make your own cone wrench of the required size. Compliance with the taper is necessary to ensure that it fits into the existing recesses. You can use profile fittings as a material for making a key.

For the “American”, the diameters of the internal and external threads are defined as 1/2, a key is required in accordance with dimensions such as 12 by 12 mm and 10 by 10 mm. The shape of the key should resemble the letter “G”, with a handle length of 150 mm.

What does it look like

All wrenches for this fitting are stepped. Outwardly, they resemble a universal step drill for metal, allowing you to make holes in a given range of diameters (4 - 16 mm, 4 - 20 mm, 4 - 30 mm, 6 - 36 mm, etc.).

Wrench sizes are generally indicated in inches, just like pipe sizes. Therefore, the tool is made in steps with dimensions of ½”, ¾”, 1”, 1 ¼”. The American universal wrench has 5–8 stages with the ability to mount fittings of all the most common sizes. There are grooves on the sides. The key is inserted into the fitting up to the desired step, capturing the beads in the slots. By turning, the “American” is easily installed on the thread.

What affects the price

There are keys consisting of two or three steps (½”, ¾” or ½”, ¾”, 1”). They can only be used to mount fittings of these sizes. The variability of sizes is one of the components of the price of this tool.

Another is the material from which it is made. Keys for “American women”, like all others, are made from steel: tool steel, zinc-plated, chrome-plated, chrome-vanadium (CrV). Keys marked CrV are more expensive than others, with all other characteristics being the same.

Drop Forged Steel means the key is made from unalloyed steel. Such instruments are quite fragile. You can’t count on their long-term service life. It is advisable to buy such a wrench at its low price if you need to perform a one-time job of installing pipes.

The turning mechanism also varies:

Types of keys

Hexagonal. It consists of several hex nuts of different sizes;
Round. The steps have a round shape;
Flat (economy). Outwardly it looks like a stepped key cut lengthwise. The simplest and cheapest option.

If there is a prospect of performing large-scale plumbing work repeatedly, on an ongoing basis, then you should take care of purchasing a high-quality wrench, with a ratchet, made of good material, with all common sizes.

Making your own key for an “American”

From a step drill

Having an old, used or broken drill, you can make an excellent stepped wrench for installing “American” ones. All you have to do is cut grooves on the sides and weld on the T-handle. Clean the weld seam.

From socket

This tool will only come in one size. Let's say, from an 18 mm socket (having an outer diameter of 23 - 23.5 mm) a 1" wrench is obtained. From a 9mm head – by ½”. From a 13mm head – ¾”. The slits are made using a grinder.

In this option, there is no need to think through the turning point. A “native” ratchet or socket wrench – and we have a dimensional wrench for the “American” ready.

Before boring the grooves, it is worth checking the fit of the head into the fitting. The wall thickness of socket heads may vary depending on the manufacturer and material of manufacture.

From reinforcement or rod

A piece of reinforcement is cleaned and ground to the required diameter. Grooves are made. The handle is welded into a T-shape or bent to an L-shape. If desired, a hole is drilled in order to insert a rotary moving handle.

Key for American women

If you are faced with such a connection as an American, then most likely the question becomes how to tighten it? Some American women are screwed with a hexagon, but for the bulk of them, you will still need a special key.

I already wrote that in the absence of such a key, you can use pliers or something suitable. The main thing is not to deform the round part of the cone.

There are several types of keys for American women. The simplest and most affordable is a short universal key, immediately suitable for 8 American sizes.

The only good thing about this wrench is that it is compact and takes up very little space in your tool bag. The disadvantages of such a key include the following:

1. If the hooks in an American are too deep, this wrench will not be able to tighten such an American. 2. Very short lever. For tightening American women larger than 1/2 inch, without additional. leverage is indispensable. 3. The key must be constantly pressed against the American key, otherwise it tends to jump out of the American slots.

The other key can be said to be similar, but it does not have the disadvantage of number “2” of the previous key + it has a ratchet.

Well, the most convenient key, in my opinion, is a cross-shaped key for American women. It has 4 main sizes, which is more than enough.

Well, for those who have access to a lathe, you can easily make such a key yourself. Buy American ones for 3/8, 1/2, 3/4. Turn round blanks to fit the inner diameter of the American women. Make slits on these blanks and cut out a tetrahedron for the ratchet. All that remains is to buy a ratchet or use the one available from a set of heads.

Source

How to properly twist an American woman

That's the question. How to hook up an American girl? Have you seen her? I think we have, if you are interested in this issue. And of course you experience problems with twisting it, which is also not surprising if you are here.

If you have a ball valve with an American connection, then there are two types of keys for them. One is cone-shaped with two special recesses, the other is hexagonal. Depending on what type of American “insides” you have, you use one or another key. It's simple. Here are photos of these wonderful keys.

How to tighten an American without a key?

Do you think this question was of interest to Ancient Greece? Nothing like this. The beloved Aristotle, who was interested in absolutely everything, avoided this issue in his writings and did not write a word about it. And no wonder. In those days there was no running water, no taps with American water, or even America; there was only the American continent, inhabited by unknown people.

If you don’t believe me, then try typing in a search engine “how they twisted an American woman in Ancient Greece” and see for yourself. The Internet will still take you to this page.

If you don’t have the necessary key for tightening one of those that I described above, and you definitely want to tighten this damn American without a key, then I will share with you the methods known to me. I do this myself when I can’t find these keys in my toolbox.

First way

To replace a cone-shaped wrench with recesses, it is enough to use a gas wrench, the one called a Swedish pipe wrench. “Ha ha,” you will laugh in the face of the monitor screen, imagining that you have caught me. No, they didn't catch it. Because we will use the gas key not in the way you imagined, but in a completely different way.

We'll stick one of his handles into the American one, the one that doesn't have a thread to calibrate the size of the key. Let's plug it in and start tightening the American by turning the key. And if you don’t have enough strength for one or two more turns, then take an adjustable wrench, clamp it on the handle stuck in the American one, and continue turning. So that.

Second way

If your hex set doesn't have the size you need, and it's not there, then it's not worth buying that wrench for the reason you're here. You can buy a bolt with a head of the desired size, which is also hexagonal. It will cost you several tens of times less than a key. You need to buy two nuts for the bolt, screw them onto the bolt and tighten them together near the head. The nuts are needed in order to grab them with a wrench and turn the bolt head inside the American in order to tighten it. Simple and effective, isn't it?

I am sure that you will now be able to tighten the American ones without much difficulty even without a key.

I already wrote that in the absence of such a key, you can use pliers or something suitable. The main thing is not to deform the round part of the cone.

There are several types of keys for American women. The simplest and most affordable is a short universal key, immediately suitable for 8 American sizes.

The only good thing about this wrench is that it is compact and takes up very little space in your tool bag. The disadvantages of such a key include the following:

American connection. How to twist?

I solder copper wiring in the bathroom. I put “American” ones next to each tap so that I can change it if it leaks. “Americans” were bought by mom and dad. The part where the dad is has a cone with a rubber ring. The question is how to screw this part into the mother of the response part. There are no edges there, if you hold it with a gas wrench, the cone will be dented, the joint itself will of course not be damaged, but this is probably not correct. When twisted, the “American” cannot be screwed in either; the ring allows the connection to turn. Help!

If the American one is soldered, then there is no need to screw it in anywhere. She solders on the pipe. If we are talking about connecting parts to each other, then they are rolled up by hand and the ring holds the pressure.

PS why didn’t they take the cranes with the American ones right away? All manufacturers have these. PPS Can you post a photo of what you bought?

Serg976 wrote: There are no edges there, if you hold it with a gas wrench, the cone will wrinkle

Typically, American threads with a conical part have internal edges like a large hexagon or square. They are specially designed so that during dismantling this cone can be unscrewed.

There is no problem connecting the parts of the American woman to each other. There is a problem connecting the part that is with the ring (male) to the female part of the line.

I bought it separately because... The taps had already been purchased previously.

Serg976 wrote: There is a problem connecting the part that is with the ring (male) to the mother of the line.

link does not work. What, there are no edges inside the hole in dad?

Vladimir_Vas wrote: Usually, American threads with a conical part have internal edges

Thanks for the tip, I didn’t realize to take a look inside.

There are protrusions inside. Made specially. Insert the special key inside and turn. You can make it yourself from a steel bar. There are many options. Initially, the solution to the problem is incorrect. If you need to change the tap, the copper pipe can be easily cut and extended. The garden of “American women” is a place of leakage.

ssrr wrote: Initially, the solution to the problem was incorrect. If you need to change the tap, the copper pipe can be easily cut and extended. The garden of “American women” is a place of leakage.

Absolutely right. I myself gave up American women with a rubber ring seal a long time ago. I use American ones with flat edges and a cardboard ring. The rubber ring is a problem. And there is nothing to replace it with. And where there is an opportunity - a tap with an American one.

Thank you, I'll take that into account. How does it increase? I haven’t held a copper coupling in my hands, does it slide on freely and slide along the pipe? Those. do you align the pipe joints, move the coupling to the joint and solder?

Why cut the pipe? Take a normal faucet (ITAP, Bugatti, Giacomini) with an American one. And you won't have to change it. And the coupling has a thread on one side and a place for soldering on the other. » >

The Bugatti cranes are standing.

coupling - on one side there is a thread, on the other there is a place for soldering.” - this is the same description of the threaded end. A coupling is when there is soldering on both sides.

Let’s say I turn the American one inside out and throw it away. I will cut off a piece of pipe with a thread on the manistral. I will make a piece instead, with one side for soldering (coupling), and the other for threading into a tap. How to put it in its place? Now, if the clutch slid, there would be no problem. But the photo shows that the coupling will not slide.

Vladimir_Vas wrote: Usually, American threads with a conical part have internal edges like a large hexagon or square. They are specially designed so that during dismantling this cone can be unscrewed.

American women have 2 slots inside. And for a hexagon it is an extension. By the way, special keys are sold for American women if you have nothing to screw them with.

ribakow.fthj wrote: American women have 2 slots inside. And for the hexagon it is an extension. By the way, special keys are sold for American women if you have nothing to wrap them with.

There is no use for these slots inside. We take the nut and screw it tightly to what will be there next. And then, together with the mating part, we screw it in where necessary. A faucet with a union nut for example. We assemble, tighten and then twist, as usual with an HP (external thread)

What it is?

Let's find out what American plumbing is and on what principle it works.

An American is a connecting element designed for quick and convenient joining of pipelines made of various materials with internal or external threads. The product structurally consists of the following components:

quick release threaded hex nut;
2 fittings, also threaded;
rubber, polyurethane or paronite gasket (in some models, in particular conical ones, this may not be present).

Essentially, this is a coupling that has a collar and a union nut that rests against this collar. The American coupling pipe connection allows you to connect two sections of pipeline by rotating just one nut . The connection can be disassembled in the same way.

The photo shows the components of the American

Connectors are made from stainless steel, brass alloys, cast iron, combinations of stainless steel and polypropylene. The products are able to withstand working environment temperatures up to +120 degrees. The permissible pressure is usually indicated on the product body.

The outer surface of the American steel has a decorative nickel coating, which protects the product from corrosion and mechanical damage, and also provides aesthetic appeal. If you use too rough tools to work with American steel, scratches may appear on the surface of the product.

Types of threaded connections and options for connecting to a pipe

Novice plumbers are interested in what American fittings are available for connecting pipes. Quite a lot of them have been developed to solve any issue when laying or repairing pipelines. Let's dwell on what kind of fittings and fittings there are, the shape and cross-section of products.

Cone and flat

The American cone is rightfully considered the most reliable, dense and durable device for joining materials of the same and different configurations. The conical connection assumes the absence of gasket material. Contact density is achieved by tightly pressing the joints being connected.

What types of fittings are there?

The assembly of water supply, heating and gas pipelines requires the presence of many branches, branches and intermediate devices. At the same time, it is necessary to provide connection options for heated towel rails, toilet tanks, radiators and many other devices.

The detachable connection of pipes must be tight, strong and durable.

Particular attention is paid to the aesthetic side of the issue. To achieve these goals, various types of American women are used.

Gusset

It is used at the joints of pipeline sections at a certain angle. If earlier adapters were welded into the system, now this need has disappeared. American corners have different diameters and degrees of bending. Products available for sale are curved at angles of 45º, 60º, 90º and 135º.

The main advantage of such fittings is that the transition from one direction to another is smooth. The connection with the union nut ensures a tight fit of the joints and optimal pressure on the rubber gaskets. At any time, it is possible to remove the fitting for inspection or cleaning of the line.

coupling

The combined detachable coupling is used to connect straight sections of the main line. American inch thread allows joining of pipes made of PVC, non-ferrous and ferrous metal.

Despite the simple-looking device, these fittings are capable of ensuring tight joints throughout the entire period of operation of the system. An undoubted advantage of using a coupling is the ability to unscrew and remove it. The product is reusable and can be used many times without loss of quality characteristics.

Cranes

Ball valves have become a successful and worthy replacement for valves, which were previously used everywhere. Installing an American faucet, what does it give? This question arises due to the high cost of this product in comparison with standard squeegees. The stainless steel body and brass inserts are durable, corrosion-resistant and reliable. The absence of rubber and silicone gaskets eliminates abrasion and premature failure of fittings.

Ball valves are installed under sinks, waste tanks, water heaters, at the entrance of the main line to the apartment, in front of heating radiators.

Other types of American

When repairing pipelines, you may need removable tees, crosses and plugs. You can complete installation tasks without the use of welding, soldering and thread cutting tools using American fittings. Connectors have different configurations, sizes and materials of manufacture. For joining, fittings with one or another connection option are used.

How to install a heated towel rail

Today I offer you step-by-step instructions for installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom. I would like to say that the procedure is not complicated, but it is responsible, because if you do something wrong there is always a chance of flooding your neighbors! So if you have never picked up the keys and don’t know what pipes are, it’s better not to take on this matter. For everyone else who has at least some idea of the installation process, read on...

So, I bought a “ladder” heated towel rail (with right-hand pipe connection), although if you have a “spiral” or “bracket”, the installation will be practically no different.

We also bought two “American” mounts; without them, it would be problematic to connect the heated floor dryer.

I already had pipes for connection from the riser. If you don’t have one, then it’s very difficult to crash into the riser yourself. It’s better to entrust this matter to your housing and communal services employees, because the riser is a serious matter, if you damage it, not only will you leave everyone without water, you can get fined (many housing and communal services offices closely monitor this, especially if the risers are already old). In general, we will assume that you have outlets, it is advisable to have them with taps in order to turn on and off the heating of the heated floor dryer.

Next, we need to firmly secure the “American” ones; for this we use fum thread (I wrote about it here). And we tighten the American ones using a 12 mm hexagon.

Next, we need to try on the heated towel rail itself, remove the rubber gaskets from the “American” and tighten the nuts almost to the end, do not pull the nuts. The nuts must be wrapped with mounting tape to prevent damage with the wrench. This is needed to measure the fastenings to the wall. Let's look at the photo.

We screw the rear fastenings and mark them on the wall.

After this, remove the dryer and drill holes in the tile according to the marked dimensions. Carefully, so as not to damage the tile itself, you need to do it with a special drill.

Now we install the mounts on the wall, here is a photo.

We install the heated towel rail back, only with rubber gaskets from the “American” ones. And we twist everything, already tightly. And pipe fastenings and wall mounting.

Next, turn on the water and check to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. If not, then you did everything correctly, you can remove the protective film, both from the reflectors on the wall and from the heated towel rail itself.

This completes the installation. The next article talked about why the heated towel rail is cold and how to deal with it.

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Good evening. I don't like situations like this))

In general, I unscrewed the lower one, but the upper one endures superhuman efforts, even as the key turns over the nut. What should I do? ¶

I consider it necessary to write for people who tried to help me with something.